Mt. Everest - Part 2 (EBC Trek)

This the second post in a seven-part series about my 2025 Everest expedition.

Our Everest expedition began with a ten-day trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp via the lesser-traveled "Two Passes Route." This route allowed us to acclimate at higher altitudes than the normal route, while avoiding crowds and reducing the risk of picking up the viruses that often spread in busy teahouses.

Beyond acclimatization, the trek immerses climbers in the rich culture of the Khumbu Valley, including its food, monasteries, and customs. Alpine Ascents excelled here, arranging visits to the homes and teahouses of their former local staff.

We followed the "Normal Route" until Namche Bazaar, where we veered west towards Thame before rejoining the main trail at Lobuche (the green route on the map below).

Day 1 - Helicopter from Kathmandu to Lukla; hike to Phakding

Kathmandu Elevation = 4,593 ft
Lukla Elevation = 9,186 ft
Phakding Elevation = 8,563 ft
Net Elevation Gain = 3,970 ft (all by helicopter)

After spending a couple days at the Yak and Yeti Hotel, a climbing mainstay in Kathmandu, we boarded two Airbus H125 helicopters bound for Lukla.

Workers prepping one of our helicopters in Kathmandu.

Thanks to the helicopter flight, we were able to thread our way to Lukla under clouds of smoke that had grounded fixed-wing aircraft for days.

After a 45 minute flight, we landed at Tenzing Hillary Airport, little more than an airstrip and helipad perched on a mountainside in the Khumbu Valley.

In Lukla, we picked up our bags and began our trek along clearly defined stone paths, similar to those connecting the towns of Cinque Terre in Italy. On our first day of hiking, we actually had a net negative elevation loss of about 800 feet. It would be the last time we lost elevation for quite a while.

Our first night was in Phakding at one of many teahouses - the Khumbu Valley equivalent of a hostel. From Lukla to Namche, the teahouses are surprisingly comfortable, often with in-room showers and bathrooms. Beyond Namche Bazaar, they tend to become increasingly rustic as you approach Everest Base Camp. A typical teahouse has a large, wood-paneled dining room with a centrally located wood and/or yak dung fireplace.

In about half the teahouses we had private rooms, but thin walls meant privacy was limited either way. It's common to hear full conversations, or someone unzipping their sleeping bag, in the next room.

Food in Khumbu teahouses is generally very good, though nearly every menu is identical. We were fortunate to avoid major stomach issues. I met one team where 75% of the trekkers picked up serious stomach bugs.

Dal (lentil soup) Bhat (steamed rice) with meat curry

Day 2 - Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Phakding Elevation = 8,563 ft
Namche Bazaar Elevation = 11,286 ft
Net Elevation Gain = 2,723 ft

Day two was an easy walk to Namche Bazaar, a major town and trading center in the Khumbu Valley.

View of Namche Bazaar from our teahouse

I tried my first - and last - deep fried Snickers bar in Namche Bazaar. Many teahouses offered them, but they were way too rich. The Snickers drink I found in a market in Namche Bazaar was much easier to finish.

After lunch, we wandered around, bought Tibetan fox fur hats, and grabbed a couple beers at the town's Irish pub.

Day 3 - Rest day in Namche Bazar

I kicked off our first rest day at Sherpa Barista, where I had my last Americano for about six weeks. We did a short acclimatization hike to Sagarmatha Next, an organization dedicated to cleaning the Khumbu Valley and supporting local artists. I ended the day with a deep-tissue massage at the teahouse and one final pint at the Irish pub.

Day 4 - Stop in Thamo on the way to Thame

Namche Bazaar Elevation = 11,286 ft
Thamo Elevation = 11,286 ft
Thame Elevation = 12,467 ft
Net Elevation Gain = 1,181 ft

After Namche, we left the main route and hiked to Thamo, where our Sirdar (head Sherpa) Ngima Tenzing Sherpa grew up. We visited his childhood home and met his parents, sister, and nephew. Ngima's father had also worked as a climbing Sherpa for Alpine Ascents.

Ngima explained how typical Sherpa homes are organized and told us about one nephew who is the reincarnation of a lama who passed away several years ago.

We also stopped at a local nunnery, where the team bought bracelets.

The nunnery. Photography was not permitted inside.

Day 5 - Rest Day in Thame

After arriving in Thame, we did an acclimatization hike up Sumdur peak and reached 14,150 feet of elevation. As you can see in the picture below, Thame sits beside a massive rock field left by a major flood in August 2024. Fortunately, the flood occurred during the day, giving villagers time to evacuate.

Thame with a million rocks in the background

We had an hour-long puja at the Thame monastery to request safe passage on our journey and on Everest.

The monastery in Thame where we had our Puja

Day 6 - Trek to Lungden

Thame Elevation = 12,467 ft
Lungden Elevation = 14,435 ft
Net Elevation Gain = 1,968 ft

I took a badly needed shower in Lungden for 700 rupees. I hadn't showered since my massage in Namche Bazar and still had oil in my hair. Pretty gross.

one of countless stupas dotting the Khumbu Valley

Day 7 - Trek to Gokyo

Lungden Elevation = 14,435 ft
Gokyo Elevation = 15,584 ft
Net Elevation Gain = 1,149 ft

On the seventh day of the trek, we departed Lungden for Gokyo via the Renjola Pass, which took us briefly to 17,600 feet of elevation. I got my first altitude-related headache in Gokyo which is about 15,600 feet. Fortunately, the headache wasn't too bad, about on par with caffeine withdrawal, and it resolved with an ibuprofen and some pressure breathing.

Gokyo is one of the prettiest spots along the Three Passes Trek

Day 8 - Gokyo Ri and trek to Dragnag

Gokyo Elevation = 15,584 ft
Gokyo Ri Elevation = 17,500 ft
Dragnag Elevation = 15,584 ft
Net Elevation Gain = 0 ft

In the morning, we climbed about 2,000 feet up Gokyo Ri (Ri means peak) and reached 17,500 feet of elevation. We then had lunch back at the teahouse and waited for the snow to clear before hiking a couple hours to Dragnag (pronounced Tag-Nag). The route crosses a huge glacier mostly buried under dirt and rock, dotted with small ponds and a moonscape-like trail.

Day 9 - Dragnag to Dzongla

Dragnag Elevation = 15,584 ft
Cho La Pass Elevation = 17,782 ft
Dzongla Elevation = 15,912 ft
Net Elevation Gain = 328 ft

On our ninth day of the trek, we hiked a little under four hours, crossing the Cho La Pass on our way to Dzongla. If I recall correctly, the Cho La Pass was perhaps the only place we used micro spikes on our way to Base Camp.

Day 10 - Dzongla to Everest Base Camp

Dzongla Elevation = 15,912 ft
Lobuche Elevation = 16,210 ft
Everest Base Camp Elevation = 17,598 ft
Net Elevation Gain = 1,686 ft

On our last day of the Everest Base Camp Trek, we stopped for lunch at Lobuche, a town we'd revisit on our first rotation up Lobuche East.

the oft-missed "Way to Everest" sign near Gorak Shep

After ten days of hiking, we finally arrived at Everest Base Camp, our home for the next 6-7 weeks. Accomodations at camp consisted of box tents, a couple bathroom tents, and a communal dome for eating, hanging out, watching movies, etc. All of this was built up on and supported by rock platforms that our base camp staff built over the preceding weeks and months.

After staying at teahouses throughout the Khumbu Valley, base camp seemed pretty rustic. It wouldn't take long to figure out how luxurious it actually was.